One of mountaineering’s most enduring mysteries happened a full century ago, and the question remains today: What happened to George Mallory and Sandy Irvine?
In May of 1924 after a six-week journey, a British Mount Everest Expedition arrived at the base of the great peak. it was Great Britain’s third reconnaissance mission put on by the Royal Geographical Society, who surveyed the mountain in 1921, and unsuccessfully attempted to summit in 1922. This time, sights were firmly set on reaching the top.
Returning to Mount Everest in 1924 was George Mallory – the only climber who had partaken in both of the previous expeditions. Born in 1886, Mallory developed a passion for climbing at a young age. He attended Winchester College where he excelled academically and athletically, while discovering his passion for adventure.
First trip to Everest in 1921
Mallory was chosen as one of the lead climbers in 1921, on the first British survey of the mountain. The goal of this first trip was to explore, conduct scientific research, and identify possible routes to the summit. They also felt for the first time the effects of high altitude on the human body. Realizing that, in order to ultimately reach the top, they would need supplemental oxygen.
In 1922, Mallory returned to Everest with the second British team. This time they made concerted efforts to reach the top, with several serious attempts, and the use of supplemental oxygen. But each time, they fell short. They did, however, achieve a world altitude record of 8321 meters.
Third time to the mountain
In 1924, Mallory again made the lengthy trip to Mount Everest, leaving behind his wife, Ruth, and three young children. Among the team members this year was a keen young climber named Andrew “Sandy” Irvine. While his climbing skills were considered rudimentary, he was extremely fit and strong, and exceptionally skilled at finding innovative solutions for solving problems.
In particular, Irvine was able to help maintain the fragile oxygen canisters brought to Mount Everest. Many of which didn’t work properly. As fate would have it, his mechanical skills may very well have been what led to his downfall. He was chosen to accompany Mallory on one final summit attempt, assumedly because he’d be the one most adept at fixing oxygen rigs up high on the mountain.
What happened to George Mallory and Sandy Irvine?
On June 8, 1924, George Mallory and Sandy Irvine geared up and left their camp for one final push to the top on the North Col route. Their climbing progress was monitored from Camp VI by Noel Odell. Peering through binoculars, Odell spotted them on the Northeast summit ridge less than 300 meters from the top and “going strong.”
Shortly after what would become the final sighting of the pair, Mallory and Irvine disappeared into cloud cover. When the skies eventually cleared, there was no sight of the two climbers. They would never return.
It took 75 years before any evidence of the two climbers was ever discovered. On May 1, 1999, Conrad Anker of the Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition found the well-preserved remains of George Mallory at 8155 meters. The discovery reignited interest in the enduring mystery and its primary question: Did they reach the top?
The mystery endures
It’s an answer the world will likely never know.
Despite the tragic ending, Mallory’s legacy lives on as a symbol of courage and determination. He was immortalized by the famous phrase “Because it’s there!” – an answer he gave to a reporter who asked him why he wanted to climb the mountain.
A reminder for us all to take up the challenge of pursuing our dreams.
Because they are there.
